dia 30

Day 30

This morning the weather was looking bad again: raining and little sun spots, but big rain when I came off. My first duty was to find the “White Hart”, a hostel that I had to enquire about a room for tomorrow. It was hard but finally found, and it is a very pleasant place, I believe I will like stay there.

bath in the morning

Being at the YMCA is really noisy and there’s so many people all the time that makes me feel a bit tired. I will have to get back here thou, because at Sundays the “White Hart” closes. Isn’t it lovely?
After that I follow my traveler instincts and went to the station. I found out that Wells could be an easy place to get, and took the chance to ask about Avebury, which is another place I want to visit. The city of Avebury is not only close to a stone circle, it was built inside one.
So I decided going to Wells and took the road. I could not stand the rain of Bath anymore. For my surprise, just as we went to the road, the sun begun to shine, and the day stay like that. It was my most beautiful day in Bath so far. Wells is located some 20 miles from Bath, and it is the heart of the medieval Somerset, house of the Bishop of Bath and Wells.

strange tomb at St. Culberths in Wells

The city have this name after the wells that are around the city. Before we get to Wells, there is a big slope (Mendip Hills) we went down and at the top of it, for my surprise appeared the Tor of Glastonbury. That was the first time I saw it with my eyes, and yet I had no doubt that it was “him”. The Tor is big enough to be seen at a distance of 8 to 10 miles – almost 20 kilometers. This is another spot where the Saint Michael Ley crosses, so it is on my list of places to visit. As I've been later in this road, the figure of the Tor became very familiar to me.

medieval Wells

Wells still retains its medieval design. The Cathedral is worth a visit, as well the gardens of the bishop’s house.The Cathedral has one of the most imposing façades of the Gothic style, but it looks a bit too short in height.

Wells Cathedral

That is because apparently the towers weren’t concluded, ant it seems they will not be. Lots of the solutions of this church looks like were done exclusively there. In the interior there is a double arch called “scissor arch” which apparently is a later construction (from the 13th century or so) done to hold the pressure of the walls. Its unconventional features makes it looks much more modern than it is actually. The view from its vaults looks like a Piranesi etching.

the Scissor Arch

the vaults and archs of the Cathedral

sculptures of the façade

The façade of the Cathedral has hundreds of sculptures from knights, saints until Christ, on the top (of course). Most of them shows the marks of time.

St. Michael at St. Andrews Cathedral

Thou the cathedral is dedicated to Saint Andrew, it is possible to see several references to St. Michael and the dragon. There are some controversy about the reason for this. One explanation tells that the churches construct upon pagan sites (and the constructors were encouraged to do that), would dedicate the site to St. Michael, to purify the place. Accordingly it may representthe victory of men upon the beast, or the reason upon the bestiality. But amongst the Ley studious, the St. Michael is related with the ancient cult to the Sun in the pagan religions, therefore, the St. Michel churches or sites, has a connection with the Sun, or are aligned to where the sun rises, especially in the beginning of may.
The city of Wells was constructed around the Cathedral area and it is surrounded by water. This must have made it famous since very long time. No wonder there’s records of much ancient human presence than the Saxons that founded the first church there. Before that, Wells was known by the ancient men of Britain. The neighbour Glastonbury was very know pilgrimage site at its time, and Wells probably was one of the pleasant steps before there.

jack the green, pagan figure present in many churches

Coming back from Wells I could see again the Tor from Glastonbury, and it again looked so imense, so important to the landscape as Mont Saint Michel look for Penzance. And this can take me somewhere.

SOLSBURY HILL

Climbing up on solsbury hill

I could see the city light

Wind was blowing, time stood still

Eagle flew out of the night

(peter gabriel)

When I get back to the station I grab my notes and tried to make an extended tour until Solsbury Hill. That was the perfect day and the perfect time for it. The bus driver could not help me and told me something I could not understand. Solbury is not very fancy or close to anything, it is just an Iron Age fort that’s been used between the 300 to 100 AD. It spots directly to Bath, and river Avon, and it seems to have been built to protect the surrounding area. There’s no much trace of it anymore, as the area been modified a lot throughout the ages, but something of the shape has remained.

Getting there was tough. I have been walking during approximately two hours to get there. There is no directions, and I could only count with a few indications and my nose to get there. And it was the happy combination of those that took me there. Through a very strange way indeed, as I missed the right road to it, and climb it from behind, cruising a camping and a sheep pasture camp. When I found the indications written public foot walk, I knew it couldn’t miss it. I guess I heard someone trying to reach me, but it was too late, I was already climbing up Solsbury Hill. There’s no much there but this legendary view of the city, and somehow it was very much as I thought it would be.

But it was magic to get there and I got very excited about. When it started to get dark (it was 21:30h then) I decided take my track to the city again. Going downhill is always easier, and I could find the bus to get me just in front of my hostel. A bit of luxury for the end of the day.